Day 9: Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac to Saint-Côme-d'Olt

Day: 9, Miles Today: 10.4, Miles To Date: 90.1

Best Day So Far

Today was the best day so far. I had a good night’s sleep, and the biggest breakfast offered yet, with cereal and yogurt in addition to the bread. I think the protein helped the rest of the day. 

Here is a look back at Saint-Chely as I started out this morning. 

Then my first 6 miles were smooth and felt great. I met Pascal, a photographer and writer from Montreal, and we walked together for a mile or so. I stopped at a green meadow for rest and a picnic, with the sun shining and looking at hills and valleys in front of me. It was a magical, perfect moment. It made me think of a song I love by Katell Keineg, called “One Hell of a Life”. I suggest you find it on YouTube. The chorus is:

When I'm dead
Please don't philosophize or feel regret
Just remember me when I said
I had one hell of a life
One hell of a life

The rest of the walk had 1 hard mile and finished with 2 good ones. The legs are getting into shape, but still have a ways to go.

Saint-Côme-d'Olt is officially the “Most Beautiful Village in France.” It’s true. But I will pass through 4 more of the Most Beautiul Villages in the next week. It’s a government designation based on small population, respect for the past and authentic architecture, and of course the village has to be beautiful. 

This is the first Gite I’ve been to that is completely full. It’s a very international crowd here tonight, with pilgrims from Korea, Amsterdam, France,  and many other countries. 

More Fun at Dinner

Dinner was another fun night. 18 pilgrims in a small dining room, all crowded together, speaking many languages. We had cream of vegetable soup and a pork stew and loud boisterous conversations. 

After dinner, Sophie and Gaetan, the owners, lead every one in a famous French Camino song called Ultrea, meaning “Go forward “.  

Camino Life: what is a Gite? 

A Gite is likes hostel. It is similar to the Alburgues in Spain, thought it is typically smaller. It is often someone’s home. Many Gites have 6-12 beds, though there are larger ones. 

Rates are very low (approx $25/night) compared to hotels or bed-and-breakfasts. For that savings, you get a bed with a blanket and pillow. You provide your own sheets. You share the room with other pilgrims. There may be one or a few bathrooms and showers for all the pilgrims. You typically can’t check in before 3:00pm and have to be out by 8:00am. 

Gites are found all along the Camino in France. They are the most common lodging for pilgrims.  Here is a picture of my Gite tonight. 3 bunk beds is a small room. There are other similar rooms at this Gite. 

An option at most Gites is Demi-Pension (DP or 1/2 board), meaning that dinner and breakfast are included, typically for 15-20 more euros. These meals are served family style and are so much fun. The food is almost always cooked in house by the owner and has been delicious in all my 9 experiences.